By Denman Moody

Sparkling Wine:

Handley Brut Rosé Anderson Valley 2006—One of the unsung heroes of the sparkling wines of California. Made in the same area as Roederer Estate, this is a perennial winner. Grapes for this wine were planted in 1990, and the vineyard was certified organic in 2005. Excellent acidity and lovely strawberry/citrus flavors sprightly dance across the palate. A wine with both substance and elegance. $40

Lanson Brut Black Label (non vintage) — Lanson was founded in 1760, even though the companywas not named Lanson until 1837. It is much better known in France, and has long been one of the best-selling brands in the United Kingdom (and remains a purveyor of Champagne to the British Royal Family). The crisp, bright fragrance and acidity come from non malolactic fermentation, which was the rule instead of the exception before the ’50s. A hint of delicate citrus and brioche intermingle with the lovely fruit flavors. $47

 

White Wine:

Wild Horse Chardonnay Central Coast 2009 — Made by Clay Brook, an agricultural business management graduate of Cal Poly. While there, he fell in love with the Central Coast, and returned after a stint with Robert Mondavi, to work at Byron and Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo. The brightness of the fruit comes from only partial malolactic, and the use of partial wood and partial stainless. About as good as Chardonnay gets at this price. $16

Handley Gewurztraminer Anderson Valley 2010 — From a very cool growing season, with the workers dropping fruit and pulling leaves so the remaining fruit could fully ripen. The majority of thefruit came from Helluva Vineyard! Incredibly well-balanced wine with aromas of honeysuckle and pears and flavors of grapefruit and litchi. One of the best of this varietal I’ve tasted outside of Alsace! Recommended with white cheeses and Chinese roasted duck. $18

Talbott Chardonnay Kali Hart 2010 —Named after Robb Talbott’s youngest daughter, this estate grown wine, mostly from 10- to 20-year-old vines from the famous Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, exhibits a perfect kiss of oak. It has a notable expression of Chardonnay fruit from one of the premier locations in Monterey County. A great value! $18

Handley Chardonnay Anderson Valley and Handley Chardonnay Mendocino County (both 2010) — Handley’s reputation was enhanced by the addition of Kristin Barnhisel in 2004. Prior to that, she earned a master’s degree in Enology from U.C. Davis, and worked for such disparate wineries as Ruffino/Nozzoli in Tuscany and Warwick Estate in South Africa — not to mention a stint at Jordan in Sonoma County. She and Milla Handley are co-winemakers. Both wines are top notch and great values at $22 and $20 respectively.

Chappellet Chardonnay Napa Valley 2010 — An elegant but fully ripe wine with good acidity and concentrated fruit, including guava and pineapple. This is probably the best yet from Chappellet, and they’ve been making Chardonnay since 1990! Partial malolactic fermentation and aged in about a third new French oak for a seemingly perfect eight months. $32

 

Red Wine:

Freakshow Cabernet Sauvignon (Michael David Winery) Lodi 2009 — Alas, when I heard they were going to make a Cabernet in the same price range with their 7 Deadly Zins and 6th Sense Syrah, I sent by way of messenger that they might want to name it 5th Dimension Cab. Whether they considered that or not, Freakshow, with an even wilder and crazier label than any of their other wines, is what we have here. Not surprisingly, it is a great value for an under $20 Cab with cherries and spice, along with some muscle and depth of flavors. $18

Handley Pinot Noir Anderson Valley 2009 and 2007 — Both beautifully made wines from 30 percent or so of estate fruit, with both spending about nine  months in new and used French oak. Handley Cellars is very understated and underrated, and these two Pinots, each at about 14 percent alcohol and with wonderful, dark berry flavors and luscious finish, prove it. $30 each

Chappellet Mountain Cuvée Napa Valley 2009 — From one of the earliest post-prohibition wineries in Napa Valley (1967), the winery’s Pritchard Hill Vineyard is certainly one of the best anywhere. And the Mountain Cuvée (Cabernet Sauvignon with a significant dollop of Merlot) is one of the best values in California! Made by Phillip Corallo-Titus since 1990, all of the Chappellet offerings are now top tier with attractive prices. Dark red fruit with dark chocolate and hints of sweet tobacco. $32

Handley Pinot Noir R.S.M. Vineyard Anderson Valley 2009 — Made from a long, cool growing season with a warm September which produced fully-ripe grapes. Approximately 40 percent whole-berry fermentation to encourage enhanced fruit flavors, and a Rockpile yeast isolate to bring out this vineyard’s minerality. Aged for nine months in 37% new French oak. Black cherry and lavender in the nose followed by lovely cherry and mocha flavors and a lengthy finish. Try with roasted chicken or duck (with cherry sauce). Only 266 cases produced. Outstanding. $50

Gemstone Estate Red Wine Napa Valley 2009 — Very attractive bottle holds this beauty, which comes from a 16-acre vineyard along the Silverado Trail in Yountville. Recent technology additions include a “sap flow sensor,” which tells exactly how much water the vines are using (which helps avoid dehydration) and an optical sorting table, which analyzes each berry for color and shape—only the best get pressed! A terroir-driven wine made by iconic winemaker Philippe Melka. Cassis, chocolate andblackberries, followed by a weighty middle taste and a long finish. High alcohol, but with delicious fruit. $78

 

 

Denman Moody is the former publisher of Moody’s Wine Review, which the Washington Post said was “…certainly the best publication in this country for tracking the state of rare and exotic wines.” He was also the contributing editor on rare wines for the International Wine Review in New York from 1984-1990. His book, The Advanced Oenophile, is available at amazon.com and Spec’s downtown Houston. Denman is the Texas broker for Dr. Konstantin Frank wines. denmanmoody@gmail.com