Cade Howell Mountain Cabernet – the best this year in its price range

By Denman Moody

 

White:

Stella Pinot Grigio (Italy) 2010 — Can’t find my notes, but this little dude with a screwcap is a startlingly good value. $7.99

Zenato Pinot Grigio delle Venezie 2010 — One of the best values in Pinot Grigio. Choosing two bottles of this over one bottle of Santa Margherita for the same dollars spent is a slam dunk decision. Bright, zesty and juicy with excellent fruit. $11

Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc Marl­borough 2010 — Another tremendous value. Almost the same as above — would rather have two bottles of this than one bottle of Cloudy Bay for the same dollars spent! Surprisingly bright and flavorful, and without the “to much grapefruit” of some New Zealand S.B.’s. A lively substitute for sparkling wine with hors d’oeuvres. $11

Nickel and Nickel Chardonnay Truchard Vineyard Carneros 2010 — “…ripe tropical fruit character and fullness on the palate. Accented by mineral notes and spice from the oak.” A little known fact is that the Truchards are from central Texas! Serve this wine with fish or chicken entrees. $40

 

Red:

(We’ll look at two tremendous values and then some outstanding, higher-end beauties):

Morro Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Split Oak Estates 2009—Although carrying the relatively meaningless “California” appellation, this wine is a nice surprise. “Proudly Lodi Rules Certified”, an incorporation of a wide range of sustainable practices not only for grape growing but also for the surrounding ecosystem, including the use of solar power, recycling and wildlife habitat restoration. My wife’s new house red! $10

Peppoli Chianti Classico Antinori 2009 — Introduced in 1988, this is the modern style Chianti Classico — in this case, 90 percent Sangiovese blended with 10 percent Merlot and Syrah, for additional color, fruit and substance. Aged in large Slovenian oak casks and some small oak barrels to complete the range of aromas. Deep ruby color with aromas of ripe, expressive red fruit. Fresh, persistent and imminently enjoyable. $25

Paraduxx Napa Valley 2008 — Annually, one of the finest wines of predominanttly Zinfandel produced. It is 68 percent Zinfandel, 24 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 7 percent Merlot and 1 percent Cabernet Franc. Aged for 16 months in 80 percent French oak and 20 percent American oak (44 percent new). Raspberry jam flavors with dark chocolate and cedar overtones. This is the 15th in the series, with the label always depicting a pair of Pacific flyway ducks — in this case, Blue Wing Teal. With the predominance of Zinfandel, can serve with a slightly spicy meat dish that might not work with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. $48

Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva Antinori 2007 — Made from 100 percent Sangiovese and aged for 12 months in small oak casks, followed by an additional year in bottle prior to release. Exactly what one would expect from an almost perfect Chianti Classico Riserva in terms of quality, especially matched with the right food. A perfect match with “Ted’s Trio” at Mancuso’s (current favorite BYOB in Houston).$53

Goldeneye Pinot Noir Anderson Valley 2010 — “Seamlessly combines powerful, dark fruit and spice layers with elegance and grace.” Aged 18 months in 70 percent new French oak. Tasted at a dinner following a 2008 Echezeaux ($150 Grand Cru from Burgundy), and the Goldeneye blew it off the table! $55

Cade Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 2008 — Most American oenophiles know about Plumpjack Winery in Napa, but are unfamiliar with its sister winery, Cade. There is a fabulous Sauvignon Blanc at $25, a lovely and substantial Napa Cabernet at $60, and a totally knocked out Howell Mountain Cabernet at $75. Made from an almost perfect mountain vintage, with extremely even ripening. Seventy-five percent new French oak aging for 19 months. Although around 15 percent alcohol, this wine exhibits such beautiful fruit and “tender” tannins, that it seems in perfect balance. A wine with that extra quality of everything coming together perfectly. The best Cabernet I’ve had this year in this price range. A winemaking tour de force by Tony Biagi, also winemaker for Plumpjack. $75

Cobb Wines Pinot Noir Diane Cobb Coastland Vineyards 2008 — Some of the oldest Sonoma Coast vineyards are ensconced right here. An amazingly nuanced wine with layers of exotic, tantalizing flavors, including raspberries, cherries, plums and spice. Superb frame with a beautiful mouthfeel. An awesome effort. Ross Cobb recommends opening his wines at least two hours before serving, and serving at 62 degrees. Who would know better? $78