By Denman Moody

www.denmanswineblog.com

Although the subtitle has nothing to do with the article, I hope it brought a smile. Now on with the wonderful business of recommending good wines!

Sparkling:

Gloria Ferrer Brut Carneros non-vintage — Along with Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley, this isthe top $18-$20 California non-vintage Brut. A blend of 89 percent Pinot Noir and 11 percent Chardonnay, the current offering is elegant with pear and almond notes in the bouquet and complex, creamy apple flavors in the taste. A winner with hors d’oeuvres. $19

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs Carneros non-vintage — A much more limited production, but hardly a blip in price. This 100 percent Chardonnay reveals a treasure of apples, orange blossoms and a hint of lighttoast. The excellent middle taste and the balancing acidity make this a top sparkler with shellfish and, ofcourse most hors d’oeuvres. $24

Red:

Chateau de la Chaize (Beaujolais) 2009 — This gorgeous castle/chateau/wine estate lies on about250 acres in Brouilly, one of the “Cru” appellations of Beaujolais, which is situated in the southern partof Burgundy. The castle was built between 1674 and 1676, and the spectacular vaulted cellar — 108 meters long —was built between 1771-1811. In 1967, the present owner, The Marquis de Roussy deSales, restored the buildings, starting with the houses of the 14 families living on the estate! In 1972, her efforts were rewarded by The Ministry for Culture, which gave the castle, the gardens and the cellars the status of “Monuments Historiques”.

Caroline de Roussy de Sales now runs the heralded estate with passion and a disarming and understated elegance. This particular vintage is one of the most ageworthy of Beaujolais I have met. It is being held in bottle until September, but should continue to improve after release for several years — especially if purchased in magnum. A great value in red wine when paired with quail or chicken. Tasted with Caroline de Roussy de Sales on 4/5/11. $18

Seven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Klipsun Vineyard (Washington State) 2007 — This was one of the first vineyards planted on Red Mountain, and is probably the best. Like some Rutherford Cabs in Napa,its signature quality is a hint of dustiness along with the beautiful red and black fruit notes. WinewriterDan Berger waxes so enthusiastically about Seven Hills Cabs that he dares anyone to find a fault inthem! Only 510 cases produced. $32

Presqu’ile Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley 2009—Old school style with whole cluster fermentationalong with some stems. Low-yielding harvest from sustainable-in-practice vineyard, and use of onlynative yeasts. Aged 14 months in French oak (25percent new). Perfect with duck confit at Backstreet Caféwith the owners and winemaker on March 29, 2011. $34

Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2008 — Low rainfall vintage with small crop and highquality. “A Mount Veeder Harvest is a zen-like art of moving across a three-dimensional chessboard, following the contours of the slopes. Take the uphill side of the vine only, or the downhill side; or justnorth, south, east or west section. We pick only what’s ready and at peak flavor and ripeness.” Rich,bold flavors—supple and powerful at the same time. $40

Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Series Napa Valley 2008—In 1990, as the Chappellet’s famous Pritchard Vineyard approached its 25th birthday, Donn Chappellet decided it was time to startproducing a Signature Series Cab every year. This 100 percent Pritchard Hill Bordeaux blend has become aniconic Napa wine, and is still under $50 a bottle! The small, intensely flavored grapes come from thedry, rocky soils and prudent crop thinning practices result in low production/high quality wines. Blackberry and cherry flavors abound in this rich but subtle beauty. $48

Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2007 — Grenache dominates the 225-acre estate vines, and all the other 13 permitted varietals are grown to some extent. This wine was harvested after a picture-perfect season with no rain until after harvest was complete. The composition is 48 percent Grenache, 28 percent Syrah, 14 percent Mourvedre, 5 percent Cinault and 5 percent miscellaneous. The casks with high percentages of Mourvèdre were aged longer to refine their tannins. Hugely successful. I normally don’t give scores, but will go out on a limb with a 96 for this full-bodied beauty with black currants, cherries and both noticeable weight and texture in the mouth. Oh, I forgot the alluring, intoxicating, seductive bouquet! Tasted with winemaker Christian Voeux at Philippe Resturant and Lounge on 2/15/11. $53

Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Pisoni vineyard 2008 —Quintessential expression of this AAA vineyard — a new designation by Denman — with cherries, raspberries and spice. One hundred percent malolactic fermentation with wild and cultured yeasts, and aged in 60 percent new Burgundian oak barrels.“…compelling depth and mouth-coating strawberry pie flavors.” Try with roasted duck with Morello cherry sauce. $80

Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Oakville 2008 — Similar to the ’07, but even more drinkable. Ninety percent Cabernet with 70 percent new oak. “…concentrated flavors of juicy, black and purple fruit along with lush, velvety tannins…” Blackberries and spice with tender tannins and a full, weighty middlepalate and long finish. My favorite early-drinking Far Niente Cabernet to date. Try with beef tenderloin.Yum! $115

Bennett Lane Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Lynch Family Vineyard 2008 — Leapfrogging above anything yet produced at this top-notch winery, this first  vineyard-designated beauty at Bennett Lanecomes from a deep, loamy-soiled vineyard at the foot of Mt. St. Helena in Calistoga, which was the beneficiary of warm days and cool nights to balance the heat throughout this harvest. Cocoa, strawberries and rose petals greet the olfactory, and chocolate-covered cherries with hints of cassis, along with excellent structure and an elegant, lingering finish round out this classy offering. Only a tiny 99 cases produced. $125

Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley 2007 — From the man who “invented” proprietary names for great California wines, this has been one of the premier, First Growth quality Napa wines since the first one produced in 1974. In that year, Phelps’s best blend was 70 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 30 percent Merlot—not enough Cabernet to name it Cabernet. So he made his normal, large supply of Cabernet , but produced the “perfect” small blended wine and called it “Insignia.” I truly believe the entire high-end Napa wine industry today would be significantly different had he just called it Cab/Merlot. This blend is 88 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 8 percent Merlot and 4 percent Petit Verdot—100 percent estate grown. The purple-black color of the exciting ’07 vintage presages a rich panoply of aromatics. Black Cherries, black currants and the perfect kiss of oak meld beautifully into one gorgeous, harmonious wine with a long, memorable finish.Just about perfect. Again, I don’t often score wines, but this one deserves a 98. $225

Other beauties:

Pali Pinot Noir Riviera Sonoma Coast 2009 — It’s hard to find an excellent Pinot Noir for under $20. Here’s one! Berries, cherries and sweet tobacco. The Pali Pinot Noir Bluffs Russian River Valley is also exceptional. $19.99 each

Alta Maria Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley 2008 — A significant newcomer. A stunning boutique winery, looks like it’s mailing list only! Visit www.altamaria.com. $25

Waterstone Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2006 — Lovely integration of French oak. Concentrated black fruit flavors. $26

VC Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley 2006 — One of the best Dry Creek Valley Cabs — and priced right. Only 186 cases produced by Cindy and Victor Trentadue. $32

MacRostie Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2008 — “…soft, luscious and full of rich, ripe flavors.” $34

J Winery Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2008 — The J wines are just getting better and better under winemaker George Bursick. “Aromas of milk chocolate, rose petals and wild blackberry.” Luscious. $35

Bella Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Maple Vineyard 2008 — Made from a 50- year-old, dry farmed, head-trained vineyard. Concentrated blackberry and boysenberry flavors. Unique and well worth the price. Only 425 cases produced. $38

Freestone Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2007 — Terroir-driven with minimal intervention with MotherNature. Lovely. $45

Littorai Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Cerise Vineyard 2007 — The only Anderson Valley Pinot in the Littorai stable and the best in my opinion. Marvelous tannic structure and spicy with balancing acidity. Try with game birds. $65

Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Carneros Hyde Vineyard 2008 — Big, rich beauty. Exceptional with roasted duck with cherry sauce. Only 628 cases produced. Fabulous. $65